We started out bright and early Sunday for a full day: Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven, and a Chinese Kung Fu Show. Tiananmen Square was very impressive. I was 11 the summer that the protests happened and the images of "Tank Man" are ingrained in my mind; I remember it being shown over and over again on the news. The square was originally built as a promenade from Tiananmen gate to the Forbidden City. It is now the largest city square in the world. It is flanked by the National Museum of China and Mao's Mausoleum. Our stroll down the promenade wound up in front of the South gate of the Forbidden City, and under a rather large portrait of Chairman Mao. The portrait of Mao is 6' tall by 4' wide and is replaced every year. What was also striking were the sheer numbers of people in line to see Mao's Mausoleum. Tina explained that Mao is still highly revered in China by the older generation; I asked her about the younger generation and she smiled and said they respect their parents. Interesting answer I thought.
We continued on to the Forbidden City and the Temple of Heaven, learning and seeing a lot of history from Imperial China. But the interesting part of the afternoon didn't come from the history, it came from the singing in the park. The older generation gathers at the park surrounding the Temple of Heaven every weekend to sing revolution songs. On some level it reminded me of Mountain Music Night in North Carolina. One thing is for sure, you could not mistake the feeling of freedom in the air as they sang their hearts out or the comaraderie that lingered once the song was done.
The wall wiped us out, as I had imagined, and luckily, I had the foresight to plan a down day for us. We slept in and laid around the room, finally getting motivated to go out and do some exploring on our own. First up, some Communist kitsch. While browsing Lonley Planet's website, I found an article on Pyongyang Art Studio. Being that we are interested in all things Jonger, we couldn't resist going to see. After getting good and lost, though we found a McDonald's for the girls to eat at, we finally stumbled onto the store. The studio is the "gift shop" of Koryo Tours, a tour company that specializes in taking Westerners to North Korea. It was very interesting to see the propaganda posters, especially those that depict the US as the "Evil Empire." It was even more enlightening to talk with the folks at Koryo about their impressions of Pyongyang and the Korean Peninsula relationship.
Later in the day, we visited the Panjiayuan "Dirt Market" and the Hongqiao Pearl Market for some light shopping. Panjiayuan is a large flea market and you can find all sorts of neat things for sale. Since we were there on a weekday, a lot of the vendors were closed, but it was still fun to browse. After we had our fill of teapots, jade, and junk, we headed for the Pearl Market. We wheeled and dealed for some shoes and other trinkets. Half the fun of shopping here is the bargaining - "No way, that costs X." "No, nevermind, I'll go see the other vendor down/up stairs." Ronnie and our finances would be in serious trouble if I could shop like that all the time. Most the time I'm only bargaining to see what I can get an item for, not because I need it but because I like the game of how cheap can I get it. At the end of the day, we were out of the market with money still in our pockets and some fun things in our backpack.
Our last day in Beijing was spent visiting the Beijing Zoo and the Summer Palace. The girls loved seeing the pandas and we met a lovely older gentleman at the zoo. He was a volunteer who spoke broken English, but he was thrilled to share the story of the pandas and the research with the girls, complete with his own photo album. We discovered that he taught himself English once it was announced that Beijing would host the Olympics, because he knew there would be lots of visitors to the zoo and he wanted to show off his pandas. Tina mentioned that it was surprising how much English he spoke because most of the older generation hasn't bothered to learn English at all; he laughed and said it kept his mind sharp as a spear and him younger.
We made our way to the Summer Palace in the afternoon. The Summer Palace was the "vacation spot" for the Emperor and is what Camp David wishes it could be. The grounds and buildings are beautifully done, with a full lake at it's disposal. We enjoyed walking around, though the girls were mobbed with paparazzi several times while there.
Yeah, the paparazzi... see, American children are a spectacle of sorts in Asia. Now, add to that the fact that Holly is fair with blonde-ish hair and blue eyes and Sarah has silky light brown hair with really big eyes and you have a full fledged media attack. Here is a video Ronnie took of the girls. It all started rather innocuously with an Asian woman asking if she can take a picture with the girls. The video is what it escalated into.
So after the girls got their Red Carpet treatment, and a quick trip to the Olympic site with more paparazzi action, it was time to bid farewell to Beijing. I wish we had just a little more time because there were some other sites I wanted to see, but Ronnie and I both agree that a return trip with a more robust Great Walk hike is in our future.